The Rooms Where it Happened: Historic Dining in Rhinebeck NY

I go cozy when planning outings in early March. Even if the weather forecast includes the promise of warming temperatures, I know that cloud cover and drizzle make late winter days raw and grey. It’s best to stay inside. So, I planned a trip to Rhinebeck in New York’s Dutchess County to check out two historic restaurants and do a little shopping to lift my winter blues.

Foster’s Coach House Tavern

My first stop, Foster’s Coach House Tavern, was easy to find. The brilliant barn-red building is located at Rhinebeck’s main intersection of Route 9 and Market Street and there’s a retro neon sign out front. It took a minute for my eyes to adjust when I stepped into the dark restaurant.

And that’s when I noticed the horse.

A large thoroughbred statue stands in a replica stall in the restaurant entrance next to a flight of stairs that leads to “Churchill’s Down,” one of Foster’s private dining rooms. The restaurant was originally opened as The Village Tavern in 1890. Wally Foster purchased it in 1933 and renovated it to reflect his love of horses. The restaurant’s main level has three dining spaces: a tap room, light-filled addition and small room with booths made out of antique horse barn stalls.

The menu offers an appealing selection of homestyle options and a disclaimer from Bob Kirwood, a subsequent owner of the restaurant. “It’s not a fancy menu…There are no gimmicks…But we think the food is good.”

And it was. My French dip sandwich featured paper thin slices of tasty London broil, cheese and onions, served with a delicately flavored au jus. All sandwiches come with coleslaw and pickle chip and your choice of side. I went with Bob Kirwood’s potato salad which was tasty enough on its own but brightened significantly when I topped it with the au jus. Foster’s has an solid selection of beers on tap. I chose the Kolsch from Mill House Brewing Company, located in nearby Poughkeepsie. My lunch, with tip, was $25.

Note: Street parking can be difficult to find in busy Rhinebeck. Foster’s has two lots for patrons.

Antiques Shopping

My original plan was to flit from one cute boutique to another. They’re clustered for easy strolling along the four street corners. But the weather had turned crappier while I was eating my sandwich. A quick pivot led me to the Beekman Arms Antique Market, located in a large red barn across the street from Foster’s.

With two floors and thirty dealers, I knew I’d be able to find at least one treasure. I found two, ideal to gift to friends. I’m in the process of Swedish death cleaning my own home so I’m getting rid of stuff, not bringing more in.

It’s a clean, open market. Although the individual dealer stalls are a bit tight, the central aisles are wide so you don’t feel like you’re going to knock over a precious something every time you turn around.

Beekman Arms

After depositing my treasures in my car, I headed to America’s oldest inn, the Beekman Arms. I opened the door and breathed in the cozy scent of hundreds of years’ worth of wood fires that have blazed in the lobby fireplace.

It was everything I expected – low ceilings, paneled walls, lived-in furniture. What I didn’t anticipate was a buzzy tavern filled with locals sipping cocktails and coffees at 2 pm on a Tuesday. The Beekman is one of Rhinebeck’s hangouts. I sat at a table on the fringe. It was excellent people-watching.

I intended to have a sweet treat, but I was still full of French dip. So I ordered a hot tea to take away the chill and read about the inn’s rich history. The tavern opened in 1704 and the inn was added in 1766. During the Revolutionary War, all the major players (George Washington, Benedict Arnold, Alexander Hamilton), slept, ate and drank here. If the walls could talk…

Note: Based on the off-hour crowd, reservations are recommended if you plan to dine in the Tavern at the Beekman Arms, especially for the popular Sunday brunch buffet.